._page_kkr9c_1{background:var(--paper);min-height:100vh}._back_kkr9c_6{min-height:var(--tap-min);color:var(--ink);align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font-size:.95rem;font-weight:600;display:inline-flex}._hero_kkr9c_16{isolation:isolate;min-height:min(68dvh,560px);color:var(--on-photo);background:#0d0c0b;align-items:end;display:grid;position:relative;overflow:hidden}._hero_kkr9c_16:after{content:"";z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(#08070626 20%,#0807068c 55%,#080706e0 95%),linear-gradient(90deg,#08070680,#0000 70%);position:absolute;inset:0}._heroPlain_kkr9c_34{background:var(--paper-2);min-height:min(44dvh,380px);color:var(--ink)}._heroPlain_kkr9c_34:after{display:none}._heroImg_kkr9c_43{z-index:-2;object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}._heroText_kkr9c_52{width:100%;max-width:1040px;padding:var(--sp-8) var(--gutter) var(--sp-6);margin:0 auto}._heroText_kkr9c_52>*{max-width:720px}._kicker_kkr9c_62{color:var(--accent-photo);margin-bottom:var(--sp-4);align-items:center;gap:10px;font-size:.82rem;font-weight:500;display:flex}._kicker_kkr9c_62:before{content:"";background:currentColor;width:28px;height:1px}._heroPlain_kkr9c_34 ._kicker_kkr9c_62{color:var(--accent-ink)}._title_kkr9c_81{color:inherit;margin-bottom:var(--sp-4);text-wrap:balance;font-size:clamp(2.5rem,6vw,4rem);line-height:1}._intro_kkr9c_89{color:var(--on-photo-soft);max-width:52ch;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,2.2vw,1.2rem);line-height:1.55}._heroPlain_kkr9c_34 ._intro_kkr9c_89{color:var(--ink-soft)}._toc_kkr9c_99{top:var(--nav-h);z-index:20;gap:var(--sp-2);scrollbar-width:none;padding:var(--sp-2) max(var(--gutter), (100% - 1040px) / 2 + var(--gutter));background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--paper) 88%, transparent);backdrop-filter:blur(12px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;position:sticky;overflow-x:auto}._toc_kkr9c_99 a{border-radius:var(--r-pill);border:1px solid var(--glass-line);color:var(--ink-soft);white-space:nowrap;transition:color var(--dur) ease, border-color var(--dur) ease;flex:none;padding:.35rem .85rem;font-size:.82rem;font-weight:500}._toc_kkr9c_99 a:hover{color:var(--ink);border-color:var(--ink-soft)}._wrap_kkr9c_128{max-width:1040px;padding:var(--sp-7) var(--gutter) var(--sp-8);margin:0 auto}._block_kkr9c_134{margin-bottom:var(--section-y);scroll-margin-top:calc(var(--nav-h) + 3.5rem)}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139{gap:clamp(var(--sp-6), 5vw, 4rem);grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;align-items:center;display:grid}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139>._figure_kkr9c_145{grid-area:1/1}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139>._text_kkr9c_149{grid-area:1/2}._flip_kkr9c_154{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.1fr}._flip_kkr9c_154>._figure_kkr9c_145{grid-column:2}._flip_kkr9c_154>._text_kkr9c_149{grid-column:1}._figure_kkr9c_145{margin:0;position:relative}._photo_kkr9c_169{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper-2);width:100%;display:block}._inset_kkr9c_177{aspect-ratio:3/4;object-fit:cover;background:var(--paper-2);border:6px solid var(--paper);width:42%;box-shadow:var(--shadow-lg);display:block;position:absolute;bottom:0;right:0}._layered_kkr9c_190>._figure_kkr9c_145{padding:0 18% 9% 0}._layered_kkr9c_190._flip_kkr9c_154>._figure_kkr9c_145{padding:0 0 9% 18%}._layered_kkr9c_190._flip_kkr9c_154 ._inset_kkr9c_177{left:0;right:auto}._text_kkr9c_149{min-width:0}._blockKicker_kkr9c_206{color:var(--accent-ink);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:var(--sp-3);font-size:.8rem;font-weight:500}._heading_kkr9c_215{margin-bottom:var(--sp-1);text-wrap:balance;font-size:clamp(1.75rem,3.4vw,2.125rem)}._body_kkr9c_221{max-width:60ch;margin-top:var(--sp-3);color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:1.06rem;line-height:1.7}._meta_kkr9c_229{margin:var(--sp-4) 0 0;gap:var(--sp-1);color:var(--ink-soft);padding:0;font-size:.875rem;list-style:none;display:grid}._meta_kkr9c_229 li{gap:.25rem var(--sp-4);flex-wrap:wrap;display:flex}._meta_kkr9c_229 b{color:var(--accent-ink);font-weight:500}@media (width<=600px){._withPhoto_kkr9c_139,._flip_kkr9c_154{flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;gap:0;display:flex}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139>._figure_kkr9c_145,._flip_kkr9c_154>._figure_kkr9c_145{margin-top:var(--sp-5);order:2}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139>._text_kkr9c_149,._flip_kkr9c_154>._text_kkr9c_149{order:1}._withPhoto_kkr9c_139>._places_kkr9c_265,._flip_kkr9c_154>._places_kkr9c_265{order:3}._layered_kkr9c_190>._figure_kkr9c_145,._layered_kkr9c_190._flip_kkr9c_154>._figure_kkr9c_145{padding:0 0 12%}._layered_kkr9c_190 ._inset_kkr9c_177,._layered_kkr9c_190._flip_kkr9c_154 ._inset_kkr9c_177{width:40%;bottom:0;left:auto;right:0}._heading_kkr9c_215{font-size:1.75rem}._body_kkr9c_221{font-size:1rem}}._placeLink_kkr9c_287{align-items:center;gap:var(--sp-2);font:inherit;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--accent);text-underline-offset:4px;cursor:pointer;background:0 0;border:0;justify-self:start;padding:0;font-size:.9375rem;display:inline-flex}._places_kkr9c_265{gap:var(--sp-3);margin-top:var(--sp-5);grid-column:1/-1;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(min(100%,240px),1fr));display:grid}._more_kkr9c_312{margin-top:var(--sp-8);padding-top:var(--sp-5);border-top:1px solid var(--line);gap:var(--sp-3);display:grid}._moreTitle_kkr9c_320{font-size:1.5rem}._moreLink_kkr9c_324{padding:var(--sp-3) var(--sp-4);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r-md);background:var(--surface);color:var(--ink);gap:.25rem;display:grid}._moreLink_kkr9c_324 span{color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.45}._moreLink_kkr9c_324:hover{border-color:var(--ink-soft)}._foot_kkr9c_342{margin-top:var(--sp-8);padding-top:var(--sp-5);border-top:1px solid var(--line);gap:var(--sp-3);flex-wrap:wrap;display:flex}